Yarn Weights Explained: The Complete Chart From Lace to Jumbo

Yarn weight has nothing to do with how much the ball weighs. It describes how thick the strand is, and it is the single most important thing on the label, because it decides your hook size, your gauge, how the fabric drapes, and how many hours the project takes.

The Craft Yarn Council standardized weights into categories 0 through 7. Here is the whole system, then how to use it.

The Yarn Weight Chart

• 0 — Name: Lace; Other names: thread, cobweb, 2 ply; Hook size (mm): 1.5 to 2.25; US hook: steel 6 to B-1; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 32 to 42
• 1 — Name: Super fine; Other names: fingering, sock, 4 ply (UK); Hook size (mm): 2.25 to 3.5; US hook: B-1 to E-4; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 21 to 32
• 2 — Name: Fine; Other names: sport, baby, 5 ply; Hook size (mm): 3.5 to 4.5; US hook: E-4 to 7; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 16 to 20
• 3 — Name: Light; Other names: DK, light worsted, 8 ply; Hook size (mm): 4.5 to 5.5; US hook: 7 to I-9; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 12 to 17
• 4 — Name: Medium; Other names: worsted, aran, afghan, 10 ply; Hook size (mm): 5.5 to 6.5; US hook: I-9 to K-10.5; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 11 to 14
• 5 — Name: Bulky; Other names: chunky, craft, rug, 12 ply; Hook size (mm): 6.5 to 9; US hook: K-10.5 to M-13; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 8 to 11
• 6 — Name: Super bulky; Other names: super chunky, roving; Hook size (mm): 9 to 15; US hook: M-13 to Q; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 7 to 9
• 7 — Name: Jumbo; Other names: jumbo, arm-knitting yarn; Hook size (mm): 15 and above; US hook: Q and above; Approx. sc per 10 cm: 6 or fewer

The hook ranges are starting points. The yarn label's suggestion is a better one, and your own swatch is the only one that counts.

How to Read the Label

Look for the small skein icon with a number in it: that is the category. Next to it you will usually find the recommended hook size and a gauge, such as "14 sc x 16 rows = 10 cm on 5.5 mm." Also on the label:

• Yardage / meterage per ball, essential for working out how many balls you need.
• Fiber content, which affects warmth, washability and drape.
• Dye lot, a batch number. Buy all the balls for one project from the same dye lot or you may see a visible color shift mid-blanket.
• Care instructions.

Each Weight and What It Is For

Lace (0). Doilies, delicate shawls, thread crochet. Slow, beautiful, not for beginners.

Super fine / fingering (1). Socks, lightweight shawls, baby garments, colorwork. Very small stitches, so projects take time, but the fabric is exquisite.

Fine / sport (2). Baby clothes, lightweight sweaters, amigurumi with fine detail. A good step up from fingering if you want more speed.

Light / DK (3). The most versatile weight for garments. Sweaters, cardigans, hats and shawls made in DK are warm without being heavy. It is also popular for amigurumi because the stitches are small enough for shaping but large enough to see.

Medium / worsted (4). The default. Blankets, hats, scarves, bags, dishcloths, most amigurumi. Works up fast, easy to see your stitches, available everywhere in every fiber and color. If you are learning, start here.

Bulky (5). Quick blankets, thick hats, cowls, rugs, baskets. A worsted blanket that takes 40 hours takes about 15 in bulky.

Super bulky (6). Chunky blankets, oversized scarves, home decor, beginner projects that need to finish in a weekend.

Jumbo (7). Arm knitting, finger crochet, giant chunky throws. A whole blanket can take an afternoon.

Country Names That Trip People Up

The ply system used in the UK, Australia and New Zealand is a weight system, not a strand count:

• 4 ply = fingering (category 1)
• 8 ply = DK (category 3)
• 10 ply = worsted or aran (category 4)
• 12 ply = bulky (category 5)

Also, "aran" and "worsted" are both category 4, but aran is slightly thicker. In a pattern that calls for worsted, an aran yarn usually works with the same hook.

Picking a Weight for Your Project

• First ever project — Best weights: 4; Why: Easy to see stitches, forgiving
• Baby blanket — Best weights: 3 or 4; Why: Soft, washable, fast enough
• Chunky throw — Best weights: 5 or 6; Why: Speed and warmth
• Beanie — Best weights: 4 or 5; Why: Structure and warmth
• Summer top — Best weights: 2 or 3, in cotton; Why: Breathable and light
• Amigurumi — Best weights: 3 or 4; Why: Small enough for shaping
• Shawl — Best weights: 1, 2 or 3; Why: Drape
• Dishcloth — Best weights: 4, in cotton; Why: Absorbent and sturdy
• Market bag — Best weights: 4, in cotton; Why: Holds shape under load

Substituting One Weight for Another

You can substitute within a category freely as long as you swatch. Substituting across categories:

• Going one step thicker (DK to worsted): the piece comes out larger and heavier. Fine for blankets and scarves; use one hook size larger.
• Going one step thinner: the piece comes out smaller and drapier. You may need to add stitches or rows to hit the pattern's measurements.
• Holding two strands of a thin yarn together roughly doubles the weight: two strands of fingering is about sport, two strands of DK is about worsted or aran, two strands of worsted is about bulky. This is a useful trick when you have lots of thin yarn and a pattern for thick.

The Wraps Per Inch Test

If a yarn has lost its label, wrap it around a ruler, strands touching but not overlapping, and count how many wraps fit in one inch (2.5 cm):

• 18 or more wraps: fingering or lace
• 14 to 17: sport or DK
• 11 to 13: worsted
• 8 to 10: bulky
• 7 or fewer: super bulky

It is approximate but good enough to choose a hook and make a swatch.

The Only Rule That Always Applies

Whatever the chart says, the yarn and hook that give you a fabric you like are the right ones. Charts get you close. The swatch gets you there.